Friday, June 3, 2011
What is the best way to take off the rotor-hub spindle?
What is the best way to take off the spindle after removing the rotor-hub on a 92 F-150 4X4 so I can take out the axles and change the u-joints in them ?|||Buy a repair manual, that should tell you.|||Unless you have a set of torches your SOL. Sorry for the bad news. You need to heat the bolts to remove them as to not brake them.
How do i change driveshaft on 1999 jeep grand cherokee limited cv joints not u joints?
i took the screws off the cv%26#039;s and it doesn%26#039;t act like it wants to move|||Need more info, is it the driveshaft between the front axle and the transfer case of the front cv shafts|||If you are trying to remove the CV joint with axle or the front drive-shaft and you have remover everything that is needed then the unit is just stuck and you will need to apply more pressure to pop it out..........
I have a 95 chevy tahoe just changed the u joints on it but now it wont go into drive it will go in 1 and 2?
trans fluid is good|||check your linkage to be sure you didn%26#039;t disturb the adjustment.......this can cause the problem your describing.
How long do U Joints usually last?
On average how many miles can you put on your U Joints before they fail? Or need Changed?|||i dont think they have an average....if you drive a car right and dont do stupid things in it from the factory the stock u joints can last the whole car/trucks life...but if you have you replace them you usually never have to worry about them again except if you have a tune up they might shoot some grease in the fittings....i wouldn%26#039;t worry about every replacing them unless you run a towing business and constantly punching the gas and basically over torquing your driveshaft...if you are ..i%26#039;d suggest stopping that b/c you can rip apart your rear end ;)|||If you have a lower quality car and im not going to spark a storm so i wont choose car companies but you can look it up. Your U-Joint might be made cheaper or less quality. If you previously bought the car from someone else who overworked his Driveshaft with a lot of towing. These are the only things i could think of and it shouldnt be a problem even with these factors till 150k +. Since i repeated some of the other guys stuff in a different way make sure he gets best answer.|||Never changed one yet in 40+ years on umpteen vehicles, why do you ask? Wot%26#039;s the problem?
Why am I still getting a loud clunking noise in my '76 GMC K15 after I changed the rear ujoints?
Now the clunking is coming from what sounds like the transfer case. I
changed both u joints on the rear drive shaft, it has a automatic trans.
There seems to be play in the front drive shaft also.
Help! I%26#039;m trying to get this thing going before winter!|||the chain in the transfer case may be about worn out on it,that will cause a lot of free play and also cause the clunking sound your getting on it,id check that also,good luck on it.|||Your hog head nut for u-joint may be loose. I found that on my sons 87 suburban. After tightening it up, the clunking went away. I also thought u joints, climbed under it and found after disconnecting drive shaft that it was the nut. I hope this helps. Good luck and God Bless.
changed both u joints on the rear drive shaft, it has a automatic trans.
There seems to be play in the front drive shaft also.
Help! I%26#039;m trying to get this thing going before winter!|||the chain in the transfer case may be about worn out on it,that will cause a lot of free play and also cause the clunking sound your getting on it,id check that also,good luck on it.|||Your hog head nut for u-joint may be loose. I found that on my sons 87 suburban. After tightening it up, the clunking went away. I also thought u joints, climbed under it and found after disconnecting drive shaft that it was the nut. I hope this helps. Good luck and God Bless.
Installing a u-joint in my 90 silverado?
i have a 90 silverado and the driveshaft ujoint at the rear axle is bad, what is the easiest way to change it?|||take the shaft all the way out of the truck, take the clips out, place the u-joint cross (the one that is not pressed in the shaft) across the jaws of a vise, and hit shaft right where the welds are, this will drive the caps out of the shaft,to install the u-joint put one cap in the shaft as far as you can push it in, then slide the new joint into that cap, hold the joint into the cap and tap the cap in more while keeping the joint in the cap, once its almost flush with shaft you should be able to push in the other cap, push the joint into that cap and do the same, be careful not to let a needle bearing fall out of place because you%26#039;ll have to start over|||Most of the G.M.s use a plastic injected U-Joint retainer method.
It is a thermal plastic resin injected in to the grove suronding the U-Joint end caps.
As you heat it with a torch it will expand to the point of degration.
At that point you quickly put it into a large bench vise, or the apropriate tool.
While the plastic is soft you can press apart the end caps, one at a time.
The replacement joint will be redesigned with retainer clips, that will replace the cheap as **** injection process.
Recomendation is to go with what is called, Brute Strength, good ****.|||The easiest and only way is to press out and back in. Sounds like you%26#039;ve never done it and it is a little tricky so my advise is to take it to a mechanic and watch him do it, then you%26#039;ll know how the next time.|||cut get another one weld its the easiest way. bit it would probably be better to get a new saft with the joint included of course. and replace. easiest isnt always the best.|||Remove drive shaft ,plug transmission some how, Remove u-joint , when re install new joint don%26#039;t lose the needle bearings when you have the joint back on drive shaft re install to tranny and connect to rear end, don%26#039;t forget to grease it after it is in place. hope this helps.|||GM has used the injected plastic since about 1977 to hold the stock joints in place.
Take driveshaft off rear end (four 7/16%26quot; head bolts)
Look at the shaft and where joint is, turn it around and look close.. You will see a small hole on each side that looks like it has gunk in it.. Thats where GM injected the plastic in at.
Using a torch (propane plumbers torch works) heat that part up (be sure to where safty glasses and/or clear face sheild) as it heats it will smoke, then the plastic will start to %26quot;snake%26quot; out of the hole... Then pop. When it pops the hot plastic can go anywhere so be carfull.. It%26#039;s all out when it pops.
Now using anything, you can pretty much just push the u joint out.
To put new one in.. Take all 4 caps off and lay them in a safe place as you don%26#039;t want the bearings to fall out of them.
Stick the cross into the center of shaft so 2 of the ends are through the holes in shaft. place a bearing cap on one side, turn shaft over laying it so that bearing cap is level on the bench/floor, etc.. Center the joint and slip other cap on..
Place a socket just smaller than the hole in shaft through hole and onto cap.. Hit socket with hammer..
Turn shaft over, place socket same way on that cap and hit it.
Now you will get C clips with your joint.. Push those clips onto U joint, on the inside, right next to the hole that cap fits in.
Your done..
Best U joint to get is the brute force joints.. About $18 or a little less. Solid body, non greasable, forged, larger needle bearings, etc.. Auto zone, advance auto parts, etc sells them
It is a thermal plastic resin injected in to the grove suronding the U-Joint end caps.
As you heat it with a torch it will expand to the point of degration.
At that point you quickly put it into a large bench vise, or the apropriate tool.
While the plastic is soft you can press apart the end caps, one at a time.
The replacement joint will be redesigned with retainer clips, that will replace the cheap as **** injection process.
Recomendation is to go with what is called, Brute Strength, good ****.|||The easiest and only way is to press out and back in. Sounds like you%26#039;ve never done it and it is a little tricky so my advise is to take it to a mechanic and watch him do it, then you%26#039;ll know how the next time.|||cut get another one weld its the easiest way. bit it would probably be better to get a new saft with the joint included of course. and replace. easiest isnt always the best.|||Remove drive shaft ,plug transmission some how, Remove u-joint , when re install new joint don%26#039;t lose the needle bearings when you have the joint back on drive shaft re install to tranny and connect to rear end, don%26#039;t forget to grease it after it is in place. hope this helps.|||GM has used the injected plastic since about 1977 to hold the stock joints in place.
Take driveshaft off rear end (four 7/16%26quot; head bolts)
Look at the shaft and where joint is, turn it around and look close.. You will see a small hole on each side that looks like it has gunk in it.. Thats where GM injected the plastic in at.
Using a torch (propane plumbers torch works) heat that part up (be sure to where safty glasses and/or clear face sheild) as it heats it will smoke, then the plastic will start to %26quot;snake%26quot; out of the hole... Then pop. When it pops the hot plastic can go anywhere so be carfull.. It%26#039;s all out when it pops.
Now using anything, you can pretty much just push the u joint out.
To put new one in.. Take all 4 caps off and lay them in a safe place as you don%26#039;t want the bearings to fall out of them.
Stick the cross into the center of shaft so 2 of the ends are through the holes in shaft. place a bearing cap on one side, turn shaft over laying it so that bearing cap is level on the bench/floor, etc.. Center the joint and slip other cap on..
Place a socket just smaller than the hole in shaft through hole and onto cap.. Hit socket with hammer..
Turn shaft over, place socket same way on that cap and hit it.
Now you will get C clips with your joint.. Push those clips onto U joint, on the inside, right next to the hole that cap fits in.
Your done..
Best U joint to get is the brute force joints.. About $18 or a little less. Solid body, non greasable, forged, larger needle bearings, etc.. Auto zone, advance auto parts, etc sells them
98 4x4 ford explorer v6 4.0 can u chnge the ball joint alone or do u have 2 change the whole upper control arm?
It comes as the whole arm.|||U have to change the whole arm
How to remove a centre support bearing from a two piece drive shaft ford 1977?
trying to change u-joints...need a little hand.|||remove the u joint from rear ,slide the back shaft from front shaft. UN -bolt the support bearing from the cross member .
1985 Dodge 3/4 ton 4 WD, PU. I need to change the u-joints on the front axles.?
Can I pull the intermediate axle on the left side without pulling the disconnect assembly? Any suggestions for reinstalling the axle shafts? I do not need to pull the inner axle shaft, all is OK here. The axle shaft on the right side does not seem to be a problem.|||Here%26#039;s your best answer. Before you take it apart, start the truck and put lever into 4 wheel lock mode, and make sure the 4x4 light comes on. This way the slider-coupler will be engaged and will hold on to inner spline, so when you re-install outer shaft, they will line right up. If you leave it in 2 wheel drive, then you will HAVE TO unbolt the vac actuator to re-align the coupler and shaft.|||looks simple
1.Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands.
2.Remove the four flange retaining bolts and lockwashers from the constant velocity U-joint at the transfer case. Matchmark the parts to reinstall them in the same position. To prevent the constant velocity joint from turning while removing the nuts, utilize a press bar.
3.Remove the nuts and lockwashers from the U-bolts at the differential flange and remove the U-bolts.
4.Support the driveshaft and separate the U-joint at the front the driveshaft yoke, pulling backward to clear the flange. The driveshaft should never be allowed to hang by either universal joint.
5.Remove the driveshaft.
To install:
6.Before installing the driveshaft, wipe the areas with a clean cloth and inspect the surfaces for scratches, nicks, dents or burrs. If there are any of these correct the problem before proceeding.
7.Support the driveshaft and slide the U-joint into the front the driveshaft yoke, pushing forward past the flange.
Be sure to install remarked parts with the same orientation as before removal.
8.Install the U-bolts, then tighten the nuts and lockwashers for the U-bolts at the differential flange.
9.With the marked parts reinstall them in the same position. Replace the four flange retaining bolts and lockwashers for the constant velocity U-joint at the transfer case.|||you need the repair manual on this one before you even start to remove any parts because once you get it tore apart it may be difficult to get back together again,both answers are good on this one but without a manual you may have problems getting it back together,good luck.
1.Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands.
2.Remove the four flange retaining bolts and lockwashers from the constant velocity U-joint at the transfer case. Matchmark the parts to reinstall them in the same position. To prevent the constant velocity joint from turning while removing the nuts, utilize a press bar.
3.Remove the nuts and lockwashers from the U-bolts at the differential flange and remove the U-bolts.
4.Support the driveshaft and separate the U-joint at the front the driveshaft yoke, pulling backward to clear the flange. The driveshaft should never be allowed to hang by either universal joint.
5.Remove the driveshaft.
To install:
6.Before installing the driveshaft, wipe the areas with a clean cloth and inspect the surfaces for scratches, nicks, dents or burrs. If there are any of these correct the problem before proceeding.
7.Support the driveshaft and slide the U-joint into the front the driveshaft yoke, pushing forward past the flange.
Be sure to install remarked parts with the same orientation as before removal.
8.Install the U-bolts, then tighten the nuts and lockwashers for the U-bolts at the differential flange.
9.With the marked parts reinstall them in the same position. Replace the four flange retaining bolts and lockwashers for the constant velocity U-joint at the transfer case.|||you need the repair manual on this one before you even start to remove any parts because once you get it tore apart it may be difficult to get back together again,both answers are good on this one but without a manual you may have problems getting it back together,good luck.
Need U-Joint for 2006 V6 DOHC Cadillac SRX..maybe?
We have an 06%26#039; srx caddy with 95k on her. We%26#039;ve owned the car now for about 6 months and it%26#039;s transmission shifts are very smooth and it hooks up nicely, although when you do hook up for sudden bursts of speed (changing lanes, pulling into traffic off of interstate etc. particularly at slower speeds, the rear end %26quot;jerks%26quot; and makes like a clunk or slam type noise like something%26#039;s not hooking up right, for sure in the rear! I think passenger side rear. I was sitting in the back today and noticed the noise as I said, in the back, you can even feel it lock into place (whatever IT is?). I told an old timer mechanic friend and he said it sounds like a U-Joint? He said they are around the drive shaft and go to each wheel. He noted that if I crawled under the car and tried to manipulate the joint, that it shouldn%26#039;t move at all, if it does, then we may have to disconnect the drive shaft and replace it? I%26#039;ve done car repairs with friends but never any suspension joints or drive shafts,etc. Shocks, brake systems, minor engine stuff, but I figure I%26#039;ll have my mechanic friend help me. I want to know 1) what is a U-joint
2) Hearing my story, does it sound like a U-joint problem?
3)how can I look one up online?
4) and lastly cost (est) and how hard is it to change one?
We are planning a trip up north and just had to replace the battery to an Optima because the stock battery died every day. We have the fully loaded version with the panoramic sunroof, power lift gate, Navigation, heated seats, 3rd row power seat.....power power power, I had to change that but otherwise it%26#039;s a great vehicle! It%26#039;s the pearl white and we have amazing payments on it, got a very good deal. This is our second srx and we have been nothing but happy with them! Thanks alot!|||1. A U-Joint is a universal joint, in your case, probably only 2, on either end of your drive shaft that will swivel and allow the driveshaft to spin straight while the axle is moving up and down with the bumps and dips in the road.
2. What you describe could be a U-joint, but the ones I%26#039;ve heard are more of a clank than a clunk, with a metallic sound.
3. You can look one up online by typing %26quot;u-joint picture%26quot; into your browser
4. They are not a real easy thing to replace. You probably should get a repair manual for your car at a local auto parts store (about $20.00). You can read the step by step instructions and see if it is something you want to try. The cost is probably around $25.00 each.|||Quick u-joint check. When shifting from d to rev and back, you%26#039;ll hear the clunk. BTW, don%26#039;t ever shift into D while the car is still rolling backwards. Bad for parts. Keep foot on brake when checking u joints this way. Also, try manually downshifting car into 3rd and see if clunk is there. Maybe the clunk you hear is the tranny downshifting. Did u change fluid every30,000? oops.
2) Hearing my story, does it sound like a U-joint problem?
3)how can I look one up online?
4) and lastly cost (est) and how hard is it to change one?
We are planning a trip up north and just had to replace the battery to an Optima because the stock battery died every day. We have the fully loaded version with the panoramic sunroof, power lift gate, Navigation, heated seats, 3rd row power seat.....power power power, I had to change that but otherwise it%26#039;s a great vehicle! It%26#039;s the pearl white and we have amazing payments on it, got a very good deal. This is our second srx and we have been nothing but happy with them! Thanks alot!|||1. A U-Joint is a universal joint, in your case, probably only 2, on either end of your drive shaft that will swivel and allow the driveshaft to spin straight while the axle is moving up and down with the bumps and dips in the road.
2. What you describe could be a U-joint, but the ones I%26#039;ve heard are more of a clank than a clunk, with a metallic sound.
3. You can look one up online by typing %26quot;u-joint picture%26quot; into your browser
4. They are not a real easy thing to replace. You probably should get a repair manual for your car at a local auto parts store (about $20.00). You can read the step by step instructions and see if it is something you want to try. The cost is probably around $25.00 each.|||Quick u-joint check. When shifting from d to rev and back, you%26#039;ll hear the clunk. BTW, don%26#039;t ever shift into D while the car is still rolling backwards. Bad for parts. Keep foot on brake when checking u joints this way. Also, try manually downshifting car into 3rd and see if clunk is there. Maybe the clunk you hear is the tranny downshifting. Did u change fluid every30,000? oops.
How do you change u joints?
just take the weed out the last joint and roll another one |||Universal joints either come out with a snap ring or are literally bolted to their mounting dogs with U shaped bolts and nuts with washers. You compress the snap ring and tap the joint out of the yoke or just unbolt the other style.|||The previous answer is correct. Unfortunately it is not that easy to remove and reinstall them. Some are also held in with plastic. If the caps do not have a snap-ring then they are held in with the plastic. You will need to heat the caps to melt out the plastic. Make alignment marks on all of the parts. Yoke to tube at both ends to keep the balance as close to possible. Disassembling you will need a punch and a socket the cap will enter easily. Tap out the capone direction this will push out the other side. Then reverse the direction tapping ont he u-joint to push the cap out the opposite side. Take your time and press the end caps in slowly to keep from loosing any roller pins they do not compress very easy and you will not be-able to get the cap fully seated. After fully seating the caps and securing. Take and hit the yoke slightly just below the cap at the base of the tube and yoke. This will release the tension from pressing the caps in. Good luck.
How do you change the rear u joints on a 2008 dodge 2500 4x4 diesel?
remove drive shaft and beat the you joint out set it in a vis loosely so on cap faces up hit the shaft till the cap comes out repeat this to opposite side and too other cross section after caps come out remove the cross part take the caps off the new one fill them with bearing grease and put cross into place work one cap at a time holding cross into cap tap cap in until seated repeat to opposite side and then to second section. if this has clips you will need to remove them first(should have put this first sorry) good luck and if caps don%26#039;t seat or joint don%26#039;t move you more than likely knocked a needle out of place and will have to re do all this
How to change the front drive shaft u-joints on a 1986 F-250?
It is indepent suspension front end. Both u-joints are needed to be replaced.|||Best bet is a repair manual as if gives you a step by step directions and pictures , not a bad deal for $20 . But below is Autozones directions with a few exploded views. Changing the u joints is easy , getting the shafts out is another story . good luck and be prepared to spend a few hrs on it.
Have a denali, when i change oil, oil gets inside the u-joints for the 4 wheel drive..will it hard the u-joint?
I place a shop towel over the u-joints on the chevy and gmc 4 wheel drives but it will not hurt it it is just messy and people will come back thinking there oil is leaking.|||Shouldn%26#039;t|||No , It will help to reduce wear on the U-joint.|||the u joints are a sealed section really, and given that i have seen thousands over the years, i have never seen one that was that close to the u-joints, even the 8 liter engine does not have a straight shot. it will hit the exhaust but not the drive shaft.
I have a kenmore/whirlpool calypso washer. i bought a u-joint kit part#285927?
the inner wash plate that looks like a brown cone that sits on top of the leveler, did not come w/ball bearing in cone. my old one has one. did the manufacter change design or did they forget to put bearing in cone.
thanks|||I recently bought a home that has the Calypso washer %26amp; dryer. You have my sympathy, the washer is a piece of crap! I never ironed so much in my life and my clothes fuzz up.|||Not sure.
I had a Calypso and ended up buying a service repair warranty from Sears and glad I did. They had to come out to my house 5 times in 6 months to fix it. Replaced three pumps, some panels on the back and something else.
They ended up buying me a new washer can gave me $500.00 to replace the one I bought. You might want to give them a call. They no longer make the Calypso and are trying to get rid of them. They even picked up and hauled off my old one for free, but it might cost you $10.00 you will just have to see.|||Call up the parts department at Sears - they will tell you if that is the correct part.
thanks|||I recently bought a home that has the Calypso washer %26amp; dryer. You have my sympathy, the washer is a piece of crap! I never ironed so much in my life and my clothes fuzz up.|||Not sure.
I had a Calypso and ended up buying a service repair warranty from Sears and glad I did. They had to come out to my house 5 times in 6 months to fix it. Replaced three pumps, some panels on the back and something else.
They ended up buying me a new washer can gave me $500.00 to replace the one I bought. You might want to give them a call. They no longer make the Calypso and are trying to get rid of them. They even picked up and hauled off my old one for free, but it might cost you $10.00 you will just have to see.|||Call up the parts department at Sears - they will tell you if that is the correct part.
Ford F-150 96, how do I separate driveshaft at carrier bearing?
2 part rear drive shaft w 3 u-joints, carrier bearing on shaft w splines opposite end which goes in to slip yoke w grease fitting. Does the slip yoke just pull apart? Does the shaft pull out so bearing can be changed? I%26#039;m changing u-joints and carrier bearing. 114000 miles, one bad u-joint.|||the drive shaft should pull apart at the slip yoke|||Hi... I%26#039;ve done some of this.. I had a 94%26#039;, 96, 88, 82
I%26#039;ve had both chevy%26#039;s and Ford 1/2 and 3/4 tons and both come apart very easily if you know what to do and how to do it.
You have to lift and support the rear-end so you have room to get under the vehicle, unscrew the cap-bolts on the rear-end portion of the shaft. Then depending if it%26#039;s a automatic or standard/2-4wd you%26#039;ll have to loosen the trans/transfer carrier bracket that%26#039;s under the tranny itself.
There should only be 2 medium sized bolts 3/4%26quot; socket of I remember right.. Just slide the tranny till it moves freely don%26#039;t remove the bolts all-together.. Now take the rear-end out first, then the front will just slide out of the tranny.. You%26#039;ll need a small bucket to catch the tranny fluid.
If it%26#039;s a standard you%26#039;ll have to set the parking brake and block the front wheels..
Spray the bolts/nuts with a lubricant and allow to sit for 10-15 minutes..
I%26#039;ve had both chevy%26#039;s and Ford 1/2 and 3/4 tons and both come apart very easily if you know what to do and how to do it.
You have to lift and support the rear-end so you have room to get under the vehicle, unscrew the cap-bolts on the rear-end portion of the shaft. Then depending if it%26#039;s a automatic or standard/2-4wd you%26#039;ll have to loosen the trans/transfer carrier bracket that%26#039;s under the tranny itself.
There should only be 2 medium sized bolts 3/4%26quot; socket of I remember right.. Just slide the tranny till it moves freely don%26#039;t remove the bolts all-together.. Now take the rear-end out first, then the front will just slide out of the tranny.. You%26#039;ll need a small bucket to catch the tranny fluid.
If it%26#039;s a standard you%26#039;ll have to set the parking brake and block the front wheels..
Spray the bolts/nuts with a lubricant and allow to sit for 10-15 minutes..
I have a 1992 Toyota truck, Manual transmission, I need to change the U joints on the rear drive shaft.?
I am a little concerned about loosing some of the transmission fluid.
My problem is I can not find anywhere, that states what type is in there. I have no idea what to replace it with.....
I know it%26#039;s not a DEXTRON, or any ATF.
So what do I use?|||its either 80-90w or a 50w oil. you will loose very little oil from removing the drive shaft.|||NEED TO USE GEAR OIL
My problem is I can not find anywhere, that states what type is in there. I have no idea what to replace it with.....
I know it%26#039;s not a DEXTRON, or any ATF.
So what do I use?|||its either 80-90w or a 50w oil. you will loose very little oil from removing the drive shaft.|||NEED TO USE GEAR OIL
U joints or CV Joints for a 99' Jeep grand Cherokee Laredo?
Should I stick with the CV joints or change them to U Joints?|||A Constant Velocity Joint allows the in and out travel of the half shaft of your independent suspension
It has a 6 sided bearing and races (so to speak) inside the boot which should be well lubricated.
This allows more torque to be applied through the axles (half shafts).
U-Joints are not protected enough, have a know lubrication problem and while only having 4 pivot points would not stand up to the constant vibration and bouncing the suspension takes, thus having the floating race of a CV joint is far superior|||CV joints are stronger than U joints stay with the CV joints.|||If you are going to use your Jeep as a Jeep, and not a family truckster, I would definitely recommend getting rid of the CV%26#039;s. Your ride will be somewhat rougher on the highway, simply from the design differences, but you will appreciate the heavy duty-ness, and piece of mind, once you hit the trail. I did this swap on my %26#039;94 GCL 4 years ago, and haven%26#039;t had a bit of trouble out of them, with tire wear, or being damaged off road. With the help of a buddy, I completed this project in about 3 hours %26quot;jack-up to jack-down%26quot;.
It has a 6 sided bearing and races (so to speak) inside the boot which should be well lubricated.
This allows more torque to be applied through the axles (half shafts).
U-Joints are not protected enough, have a know lubrication problem and while only having 4 pivot points would not stand up to the constant vibration and bouncing the suspension takes, thus having the floating race of a CV joint is far superior|||CV joints are stronger than U joints stay with the CV joints.|||If you are going to use your Jeep as a Jeep, and not a family truckster, I would definitely recommend getting rid of the CV%26#039;s. Your ride will be somewhat rougher on the highway, simply from the design differences, but you will appreciate the heavy duty-ness, and piece of mind, once you hit the trail. I did this swap on my %26#039;94 GCL 4 years ago, and haven%26#039;t had a bit of trouble out of them, with tire wear, or being damaged off road. With the help of a buddy, I completed this project in about 3 hours %26quot;jack-up to jack-down%26quot;.
When I changed my u joints, I lost some trans (?) fluid, how do i replace it?
It%26#039;s not out of the rear diff, although that is leaking as well!|||if it is a manual transmission .. there is 2 plugs in the side of the transmission top is to add, bottom is to drain. and i would fix the leak in the rear end too.. new seal and gasket it only a 1 hour job.. runing it lowin oil will wear out the rear end and Axel bearings .. i have seen the bearings seize up and a rear wheel break off and role down the road.... so fix the leak....|||i%26#039;m not totally sure what you%26#039;re asking but for tranny fluid you usually need a funnel; just pour the fluid in where the dip stick is.|||It is usally a square hole on the side of the trans that a 3/8 drive ratchet will fit into. There will be one on the side to fill and one on bottom to drain. Check with your local parts store for proper fluid to fill with , some of the newer will require synthetic fluid. If dont see the square hole it may be a bolt on the side you remove to fill.|||There is a plug on one side or the other that will be your fill point.;..
How do you change staked in u-joints?
I have a 97 GMC Sonoma with staked in U-joints.How do I rebuild the drive shaft?I don%26#039;t have $350.00 to replace the whole shaft.|||Most of the older cars with staked u-joints were actually held in with plastic that was injected in. Could heat these with a torch and melt it out or have used a press.Might have to use a press either way. New u-joints came with locking rings that held the joints in.
Have not worked on these later models, may or may not be the same.
Hope this helps some.
Have not worked on these later models, may or may not be the same.
Hope this helps some.
Need to change u-joints.?
I have a 1992 Toyota truck, Manual transmission, I need to change the U joints on the rear drive shaft.?
I am a little concerned about loosing some of the transmission fluid.
My problem is I can not find anywhere, that states what type is in there. I have no idea what to replace it with.....
I know it%26#039;s not a DEXTRON, or any ATF.
So what do I use?|||usually its a 90 weight gear oil !!|||Check your owners manuel|||u-pints are outside the gear box, on teh drive shft, so ther is no reaso to open a gear box or trannie. you should not lose any fluid changing these out.|||The U joint can come out and it will NOT spill any fluids.
If you worried about the tranny, then they take tranny fluids (ATF). As for the rear diff, they take gear oil.
Go to local auto parts store and they%26#039;ll give you the proper oil.
===
But again on rear wheel drive, the U joints comes out with no spills.
Good Luck...|||Loki, relax , when you change the u joint jack up the rear axle and put it on stand you dont need much, then go for it! you see Loki, the fluid level isnt that high up its supposed to be below the rear seal level usually several inches, that rear seal is to keep crud out of the trand not as much the oil in (but does both) your rear bearing is usually a sealed bearing. so any way when you jack it up you will most likey only loose whats on the input shaft less than a cup. any good auto parts store can tell you what fluid is needed if you should deside to check the level. ps the level should be just below the filler plug 1/4 inch when cold. if checked hot it will flow out the plug.
I am a little concerned about loosing some of the transmission fluid.
My problem is I can not find anywhere, that states what type is in there. I have no idea what to replace it with.....
I know it%26#039;s not a DEXTRON, or any ATF.
So what do I use?|||usually its a 90 weight gear oil !!|||Check your owners manuel|||u-pints are outside the gear box, on teh drive shft, so ther is no reaso to open a gear box or trannie. you should not lose any fluid changing these out.|||The U joint can come out and it will NOT spill any fluids.
If you worried about the tranny, then they take tranny fluids (ATF). As for the rear diff, they take gear oil.
Go to local auto parts store and they%26#039;ll give you the proper oil.
===
But again on rear wheel drive, the U joints comes out with no spills.
Good Luck...|||Loki, relax , when you change the u joint jack up the rear axle and put it on stand you dont need much, then go for it! you see Loki, the fluid level isnt that high up its supposed to be below the rear seal level usually several inches, that rear seal is to keep crud out of the trand not as much the oil in (but does both) your rear bearing is usually a sealed bearing. so any way when you jack it up you will most likey only loose whats on the input shaft less than a cup. any good auto parts store can tell you what fluid is needed if you should deside to check the level. ps the level should be just below the filler plug 1/4 inch when cold. if checked hot it will flow out the plug.
Are my U-Joints going bad?
I have a %26#039;93 Ford F150, 302, 5 speed. Whenever I give my truck gas, (doesn%26#039;t matter what gear it%26#039;s in) I can hear a clunk, and then a squeeking sound as I speed up. When I let off of the gas, I can hear a clunk clunk clunk clunk sound. It will only do it when it gets a load put on it, as when I accelerate, and deccelerate, (without taking it out of gear). I%26#039;ve never had to change u-joints on anything before so I don%26#039;t know what it sounds like when they go bad. By the way in case you are wondering, I just got done changing the oil in the rear end hoping maybe that was it....|||the important clue is the squeaking noise as you speed up. this is one of the biggest tell tale signs of a u-joint going bad. It is very important to gete them all inspected and replaced very soon. I%26#039;ve seen a lot of trucks on the side of the road with the driveshaft hanging down with a broken u-joint.|||unwanted vibrations and greese slung from the u-joints on the undercarriage are other signs of this.|||Could be a carrier bearing is it has one. Look and see if it has a 2 piece drive shaft and if it does, the rubber grommet in the center may be wore out, that%26#039;s the carrier bearing|||Crawl under your truck with a pry bar and pry at the axis points, if there is any play there bad. Also check you springs, explorers are notorious for the shackles rottin out causing your rear to shift and clunk around.|||yes it is your u joints get them checked out quick before you have to replace somthing else along with it!
How do you change the u-joints in a 1982 chevy pickup?
Our driveline has plastic plugs that are apparently holding the old ujoints in place. Does anyone know how to remove these nasty little buggers? Thanks!!!|||Yes, use a torch heat the jount, melt out the plastic, press out the old one , but in the new one with the clips as supplyed and install it. you are now done.|||Benson has obviously done this before. LOL I too have experienced this. Heating with a torch until the plastic bubbles out is the only way i know.
If u own a house joint tenency and then get married, do u change the title? How and 2 what?
My fiance (at the time) and I built a house together. Then we got married. Do we need to change the way the title is named, and if so to what? How do I go about changing it?|||talk to a title company or ask the advice of a real estate attorney. If you go through the same one you used when you bought the property to build, they probably won%26#039;t charge you to give you the info you need.|||Not if you both bought it. If you bought it solely in your name and you want to add her to the deed then you need to change it. If your saying her maiden name is on the deed and you want it to be her married name its the same difference and you dont need to change it. If you are the only one on the deed and want to add her you need to call your lender.|||The only change that needs to be made is the wife%26#039;s name on the land records, if the wife%26#039;s name has changed after the marriage. This really won%26#039;t be important until you sell your house. The name on the selling contract (the wife%26#039;s name at the time of sale) has to match the name that is recorded in the land records. But this also might depend on where you live because each state has their own rules. Check your City Hall for what is required.|||Yes, you need to change your deed to avoid paying inheritance tax. We went to the Lawyer that handled our closing. I think you can go to the courthouse and handle it that way. Just tell them you need to change the deed into your married name, they know what to do. It costs about $45.00|||Keep it joint tenancy, but do a name change.
How do you change u joints in a older chevy S 10?
i have taken the drive shaft out and the u joints got little plastic pins holden them in and i beatin on it with a hammer for a while but nothin is there a tool or a different way to do this.|||You will need to press the U joints to break the plastic retainer (use an hydralic press or an manual press) most automotive repair places will have it. You can melt the platic retainer and find a socket that is smaller than the metal loops and pound the u joints out (best if you do it in a vise or bigger socket on the bottom) the replacement will have a c clip with the U joint so use that . the nylon/plastic retainer is used by the manufacturer only(it kinda tells u that the U joint is an orginal)|||you%26quot;ll need socket that will just fit in the lip where the cap is,use a pair of vise gripe pliers to hold the socket,hit it very hard.drive shaft well need to be in a vise or u well need some one to hold it still.new u-joints come with clips that clip to the inside.socket that u use well be no good after this.best thing to do is take it to a drive shaft shop.|||Those plastic pins are not pins, that plastic in holding the caps in place and it is all around the inside of the yoke.
Take your driveshaft to a garage with a set of torches, they will heat the yoke and all of the plastic will leach out, it will then be possible to remove the caps,
BE CAREFUL, and do not damage the driveshaft in any way, you will end up with a vibration.
Take your driveshaft to a garage with a set of torches, they will heat the yoke and all of the plastic will leach out, it will then be possible to remove the caps,
BE CAREFUL, and do not damage the driveshaft in any way, you will end up with a vibration.
1994 explorer left front u joint?
Can someone please tell me how to change the left front u joint on a 1994 ford explorer? Thank you!|||I never done it, iv head it really hard if you dont have tools knowledge, best to take the car to a shop|||easy undo hub nut, disconect hub from wishbone so is free to move, pull out old drive shaft and replace with new 1.|||Is it your front wheel 4x4 ? if it is you replace it like you would replace your rear drive shaft u joint. And replace the silver bands that you remove from the rubber boot from the transfer case. You can get the straps at ford dealer and the tool at a auto parts store.|||i,am assuming it,s a 4x4 so take the nut off, pull the hub and pull the axle. it,s just as easy to replace the whole axle then fooling around replacing the u-joint.
How hard is it to change the U joints on a 2001 silverado 4WD front and rear drive shafts?
im gettin ready to change my u joints on my front and rear drive shafts with aluminum shafts how hard is it gonna be to do|||Keith, allow me to be totally honest with you. If you have not replaced you joints, especially in 4 wheel drive shaft which are more beefed up, then you are going to have a hard time doing it.
You will have to do it with a socket (same diameter as the u-joint cap head) and a hammer and perferably a vise to hold it all while you do it. You stand the chance of busting a cap apart and or losing cap needle bearings if you don%26#039;t know how to do it all right.
So being honest Keith I would tell you to chock your wheels, make sure the park brake is on, and remove the shafts and take them down to a shop to have the old ones pressed off and new ones pressed on. They can do it quickly and easily with a bench press.
And like I said, the 4 wheel drive u-joints are more beefier than standard 2 wheel drive u-joints. So make sure the new ones you bought are rated for 4 wheel drive or they will end up going south on you quickly.
You will have to do it with a socket (same diameter as the u-joint cap head) and a hammer and perferably a vise to hold it all while you do it. You stand the chance of busting a cap apart and or losing cap needle bearings if you don%26#039;t know how to do it all right.
So being honest Keith I would tell you to chock your wheels, make sure the park brake is on, and remove the shafts and take them down to a shop to have the old ones pressed off and new ones pressed on. They can do it quickly and easily with a bench press.
And like I said, the 4 wheel drive u-joints are more beefier than standard 2 wheel drive u-joints. So make sure the new ones you bought are rated for 4 wheel drive or they will end up going south on you quickly.
How do you change the u-joints on a Polaris Sportsman 500?
Unless you are willing to invest in about $500 worth of specialty tools I would suggest that you get this job done by a professional.
When should I replace the u-joints on my 2003 trailblazer?
I have 92000 miles and getting ready to to a tune up. When should I change the u-joints? The vehicle is running perfectly. What else should I change? I have changed the tranny and rear differential fluid and thats all.|||Block the front wheels. Raise the rear of the vehicle %26amp; support on jack stands. Place the shifter in neutral. Crawl under the vehicle with a trouble light.
1. Shake the drive shaft. It should be tight no movement within the u-joints.
2. Spin the shaft. Should turn easily; no squeaks or grinding sound.
3. Inspect the u-joint. The joint should have no rust streaks on any of the caps.
Perform the same test on the front driveshaft if equipped.
禄禄禄|||if they are still good then don,t fool with them. they will let you know when they are starting to go bad. you will hear a clunking noise.|||u joints are a swap them out when they go bad thing they can go 200000 miles and still work or they can fail at 20000 miles
1. Shake the drive shaft. It should be tight no movement within the u-joints.
2. Spin the shaft. Should turn easily; no squeaks or grinding sound.
3. Inspect the u-joint. The joint should have no rust streaks on any of the caps.
Perform the same test on the front driveshaft if equipped.
禄禄禄|||if they are still good then don,t fool with them. they will let you know when they are starting to go bad. you will hear a clunking noise.|||u joints are a swap them out when they go bad thing they can go 200000 miles and still work or they can fail at 20000 miles
Can i change the U-joint on a 99 Miata.?
i mean, do it by my self.
because i heard that they are machined in the drive shaft.
in that case, can i just change the whole drive shaft by my self?|||If you have the right tools and can get the car up in the air to work under safely (jack stands and/or ramps), yes you can do it.
For a replacement try Miata Mania or Flying Miata (salvage parts).|||The u-joints are not serviced by Mazda. That means you have to replace the whole shaft as an assembly. It%26#039;s not very hard. An inexpensive Haynes repair manual will show you the procedure.
because i heard that they are machined in the drive shaft.
in that case, can i just change the whole drive shaft by my self?|||If you have the right tools and can get the car up in the air to work under safely (jack stands and/or ramps), yes you can do it.
For a replacement try Miata Mania or Flying Miata (salvage parts).|||The u-joints are not serviced by Mazda. That means you have to replace the whole shaft as an assembly. It%26#039;s not very hard. An inexpensive Haynes repair manual will show you the procedure.
What tools will i need to change a u-joint on the front axle of my 98 dodge 1/2 ton standard cap pickup?
you need a 3/8 allen bit to remove the caliper and rotor.3/8 drive ratchet to turn the 3/8 bit.1/2 inch drive breaker bar and a 9/16 inch 12 point socket,make sure to tap it on all the way the bolts holding the hub assembly into the spindel are quite tight.If you dont have a good torque wrench dont bother with the axel nut,otherwise you%26#039;ll need a 1%26amp;11/16 inch socket to remove it.1/4 inch dia. roll pin punch to knock off u-joint lock rings.Hammers to help remove bearing assembly and knock u-joint out of shaft.When removing the bearing assembly,back each bolt out 2-3 turns.Leave socket only on a bolt and tap it with a hammer,alternate between all bolts till it comes loose enough to get a prybar behind the flange and work it the rest of the way out.Don%26#039;t forget the most important tool of all,SAFTEY STANDS. Good luck.|||a hammer, a vice, a medium punch, a wrench and proper socket ( not sure of size, most likely a 12 point) and a pair of needle nose pliers. BE CAREFULL, the rollers in side the caps like to fall out and break when you try and dive the caps into the yoke. use grease to secure them and take your time, with a lil pratice you will be a pro.
83 Celica GT 5-spd. w/ clanking noise when changing gears, need to know how to fix, not u-joint problem?
someone told me that there was a way to adjust the rear end by tightening something to reduce play? not too sure if this should work or does anyone have any clue or ideas or suggestions.....please help|||Yes it could be worn u-joints have them checked.
Fit new ones having grease nipples.
Fit new ones having grease nipples.
How do i change a u-joint on a 87 ford mustang?
87 ford mustang hatchback lx 5.0|||i can tell from your question, you will not be able to do it. find a mechanic friend with a vise to help you.
take out drive shaft. remove clips from old Ujoint. knock/press out old one. install new one. its not as easy as it sounds.|||pull the drive shaft, and press out old, press in new. not a job for person with little exp.|||get a new drive shaft from ford motorsport / alum /
it%26#039;s better in long run.|||buy a book, a set of wrenches, a couple of u-joints ( your local auto parts store will help you find the right ones %26amp; plan to get dirty for a couple of hours
take out drive shaft. remove clips from old Ujoint. knock/press out old one. install new one. its not as easy as it sounds.|||pull the drive shaft, and press out old, press in new. not a job for person with little exp.|||get a new drive shaft from ford motorsport / alum /
it%26#039;s better in long run.|||buy a book, a set of wrenches, a couple of u-joints ( your local auto parts store will help you find the right ones %26amp; plan to get dirty for a couple of hours
I am wonder about my 78 bronco,u joint drive ,shaft or differentail is gone not sure,can you help?
I am wonder about my 78 bronco,u jiont drive ,shaft or differentail is gone not sure,can you help?
I have a lifted 1978 ford bronco it was making clicking sound brought to a mechanic he said it was u joint ,so changed u joint,about 2 weeks after drove to store And u joint popped right out,so got another cause had some young guy change it,so took drive shaft off and put it in 4H she drove home fine.I put other u joint in and after put it in put back in gear and she wouldn%26#039;t move forward made like all my tires are seized ,so took drive shaft of again and she drives fine,so my ?is could it be drive-shaft seized or ,could be my differential? cause in 4h she drives fine so want to know also if my back differential was screwed would she make a sound when driving if differential was gone?|||If all four wheel roll it can not be that either or one of the differentials are seized. Test this for two reasons: Put the truck on jack-stands and remove the drive-shafts. Twist the yokes that come out of the rear ends. If the two wheels turn, the ring and pinions must be OK. When you %26quot;lift%26quot; a short wheel base vehicle universal joints take a terrible beating. The correct terminology is input and output speed which is *different when you have a lot of U-joint angularity because of the %26quot;lift%26quot;. Guess what happens next: With a severe rear U-joint angularity the rear wheels are trying to run at a slightly different speed than the front universal joint on the same drive-shaft. You know already what parts crap-out first.
Inspect the U-joint clearances carefully. Make darn sure normal suspension travel isn%26#039;t causing the joints to bind. You%26#039;ll see marks on the ends of the drive-shaft, front slip joint and rear end/s yokes.
If all clearances are adequate, nothing in the world beats Spicer universal joints.|||you may want to check the angle of your drive shaft if its lifted you could have to much of an anle on the drive shaft and it could cause it to bind up
I have a lifted 1978 ford bronco it was making clicking sound brought to a mechanic he said it was u joint ,so changed u joint,about 2 weeks after drove to store And u joint popped right out,so got another cause had some young guy change it,so took drive shaft off and put it in 4H she drove home fine.I put other u joint in and after put it in put back in gear and she wouldn%26#039;t move forward made like all my tires are seized ,so took drive shaft of again and she drives fine,so my ?is could it be drive-shaft seized or ,could be my differential? cause in 4h she drives fine so want to know also if my back differential was screwed would she make a sound when driving if differential was gone?|||If all four wheel roll it can not be that either or one of the differentials are seized. Test this for two reasons: Put the truck on jack-stands and remove the drive-shafts. Twist the yokes that come out of the rear ends. If the two wheels turn, the ring and pinions must be OK. When you %26quot;lift%26quot; a short wheel base vehicle universal joints take a terrible beating. The correct terminology is input and output speed which is *different when you have a lot of U-joint angularity because of the %26quot;lift%26quot;. Guess what happens next: With a severe rear U-joint angularity the rear wheels are trying to run at a slightly different speed than the front universal joint on the same drive-shaft. You know already what parts crap-out first.
Inspect the U-joint clearances carefully. Make darn sure normal suspension travel isn%26#039;t causing the joints to bind. You%26#039;ll see marks on the ends of the drive-shaft, front slip joint and rear end/s yokes.
If all clearances are adequate, nothing in the world beats Spicer universal joints.|||you may want to check the angle of your drive shaft if its lifted you could have to much of an anle on the drive shaft and it could cause it to bind up
I need instructions changing u joints in a 1990 chevy blazer 4wd. please help!?
Try the link below it may be of some help
if the one does not help the second one has pictures to help guide you if you do not know what your doing.
Replacement is rather easy after you do the first one.
if the one does not help the second one has pictures to help guide you if you do not know what your doing.
Replacement is rather easy after you do the first one.
Changing u joints on a 1984 chevy pickup?
I heard that it can be done, and looking at the year I am guessing that it probably hasn%26#039;t been done in awhile, so put a little elbow grease into it. Oh, yeah....that pick-up does have U-Joints.|||welllllllllll go ahead/do it|||type into searchbox
how to remove u-joint
how to replace u- joint
how to install u- joint
most wil have cap end clips remove with pliars lay on a block or in a grip beat down with hammer filp it over beat the other way caps fall out should mark shaft some way so before you take apart you put back same way a marker wil do you can find a few videos ort how to by typing into searchbox pretty much any wil do they all about same
how to replace u joint|||Dont smash your figers|||First of all, trust Spicer U-Joints with grease fittings. You could use a hammer in a pinch but I trust a more controlled press in my big old nasty Wilton bench vise.
Use 1/2%26quot; sockets as pressers and receivers.|||what about it ? if it,s bad you change it.
how to remove u-joint
how to replace u- joint
how to install u- joint
most wil have cap end clips remove with pliars lay on a block or in a grip beat down with hammer filp it over beat the other way caps fall out should mark shaft some way so before you take apart you put back same way a marker wil do you can find a few videos ort how to by typing into searchbox pretty much any wil do they all about same
how to replace u joint|||Dont smash your figers|||First of all, trust Spicer U-Joints with grease fittings. You could use a hammer in a pinch but I trust a more controlled press in my big old nasty Wilton bench vise.
Use 1/2%26quot; sockets as pressers and receivers.|||what about it ? if it,s bad you change it.
Does anyone know how to change a u-joint?
i need to change both the front and rear driveshaft u-joints on my 2000 chevy s-10 can anybody explain how i do this?|||You remove the driveshaft from the rear differential first,then you pull the shaft out of the back of the transmission. Now you can either take the shaft to a machine shop or sometimes (a reputable auto parts store has a backroom where they do this) and they can press out the old and press in the new joints. Otherwise two are usually c-clamped while the other two of each side are pressed in. You can usually if you dont have the proper tools,use a socket of a smaller sized diameter and hammer out one side with the socket as the punch - remove the cap and then reverse it and hammer out the other side. Be sure to remove the spring locks before hammering them through though. To replace the new ones then you must remove one sides cap in order for it to fit between the yoke. Watch out here because the cap has all the roller bearings in it.The grease usually holds them in place- But when you start to put the cap you had to remove in order to get the joint in the yoke back on - you must make sure the bearings stay in place,or one that falls will damage the joint. If you have a table vise is even better at pressing them back in rather than hammering them with a socket.you can clamp it down on the end caps as you slowly turn the vise in and making sure that everything is still in place. This being your first time, you should take it slow and be sure of how you are doing it. And if this doesnt make any sense to you then you may want to go purchase a repair manual from the auto store and read it step by step.|||Buy the Haynes Repair manual for your car%26#039;s make and model. It is like having a mechanic right there with you. I have been using one for my cars for years.|||No offense intended but if you dont know how to do it you`ll be better off letting some one who does.|||Really simple. Spray the nuts with wd 40 or other lubricant. loosen them and tap the u bolt out of the holes, being careful not to damage the threads. You may have a clip on the end of the U joint holdint it into place. You can remove this with some pliers or you can buy the special tool. You may have to use a vixe to remove the u joint or tap it out, it depends on how old and how long it has been in use. After removing the old U joint, replace it with the new, making sure the caps do not come off the spindle.Replace the u bolt and nuts|||it%26#039;s fairly easy. YOU should get an s 10 repair manual though and not go by the answers thing. Basically lift the vehicle. disconnect one end then the other usually back then front, remove the old joints, lube, replace joints and replace the drive shaft the reverse of the way you took it down
I have a 1994 Ford Explorer 4x4 U joint issues?
I recently had the The U joints done on the front end. My question The middle U joint, Do you half to drop the front end to change the u joint?|||no you should have constant velocity joints at the wheels and on the diff. end there will be a u joint at the driveshaft to the front diff. there is no need to drop the front end|||yup
How to change a u joint?
i have a 1992 ford f250 supercab and have been told i need to change the u joint. is this a difficult job and can i do it on my own? i am pretty mechanically inclined but time is a problem and not sure how much those shops charge and also is it dangerous to drive with that ubolt making that ticking sound|||take the drive shaft out and put it on a work bench, and take out the clips and drive out the bearing caps and do the same with the other side, now grease the holes in the yoke and put the joint in the yoke, now start 1 cap, while holding up on the yoke against the cap, drive the cap home, and turn the drive shaft over and do the same on the other side of the yoke(make sure you dont lose the bearing out of the new caps,also when you install the yoke into the driveshaft, make sure you can get to the grease fitting. oh yes, i almost forgot to tell you, make sure you put the new clips in, after you get the caps drove in.|||I%26#039;m guessing U-joint on the driveshaft? You could probably do it yourself, unless welding is involved as it is in some cases. You do not want to drive with that bad U joint.|||Most of them are held together with 4 bolts. Caution, if you do it, make sure the wheels are blocked so the vehicle won%26#039;t move. Once you drop the drive shaft there is nothing there to
prevent the vehicle from rolling.|||If the u-joint is retained by a circlip then changing them is a relatively straightforward affair. If the u-joints are retained by injected nylon then bring it to a shop. If you bring it to a shop you save yourself the headache of any unforseen problems or mishaps that may occur at your house. Most shops charge around 2 hours labor|||its pretty confusing, there are some special tools involved and a couple clips that go in certain places, etc... i would have a friend show you how and teach you for next time
prevent the vehicle from rolling.|||If the u-joint is retained by a circlip then changing them is a relatively straightforward affair. If the u-joints are retained by injected nylon then bring it to a shop. If you bring it to a shop you save yourself the headache of any unforseen problems or mishaps that may occur at your house. Most shops charge around 2 hours labor|||its pretty confusing, there are some special tools involved and a couple clips that go in certain places, etc... i would have a friend show you how and teach you for next time
How hard is it to change a u joint on the front axle of a 1998 dodge 1/2 ton standard cab pick up?
They are not hard to replace as long as you have the right tools. One thing I will warn you about is the wheel bearing. Usually the axle nut that holds the axle in the wheel bearing is torqued to 400+ ft/lbs and is a ^$%26amp;*(# to get loose and you may wind up breaking tools. Other than that, they aren%26#039;t bad.
Vibration while driving after changing u-joints?
I changed my U-joints on my 00 GMC Sierra and now I have a vibration after about 30 MPH. I messed up and forgot to align everything before taking it all apart. How do I fix this and are the U-joints still good. Thanks||| A fix for misalignments is here:
One oversize the right back tire and deflate while tightening lugs
from front to rear.
Two set all gear again without moving structures with
the v box computer at volvo, volkswagon or mac truck.
This is a test set at 2 rpm ratios are 104 to 204 left to right.
When reading the test score, set the radio tilt to 3degrees/160.
That is a drag weight valve adjuster. The equipment is available
at some chop, racer or hauler shops.|||yep they may be off a bit and need alignment. try adjusting the mounts. joints should be fine. check the joints for warpage. may be good to get an estimate from an alignment shop.|||you ll have to take them apart and re clock the yolk 180 deg, or you may have damaged the yolk installing the joint. if that fails then you can take the shaft to a driveline Specialist and have it balanced.
One oversize the right back tire and deflate while tightening lugs
from front to rear.
Two set all gear again without moving structures with
the v box computer at volvo, volkswagon or mac truck.
This is a test set at 2 rpm ratios are 104 to 204 left to right.
When reading the test score, set the radio tilt to 3degrees/160.
That is a drag weight valve adjuster. The equipment is available
at some chop, racer or hauler shops.|||yep they may be off a bit and need alignment. try adjusting the mounts. joints should be fine. check the joints for warpage. may be good to get an estimate from an alignment shop.|||you ll have to take them apart and re clock the yolk 180 deg, or you may have damaged the yolk installing the joint. if that fails then you can take the shaft to a driveline Specialist and have it balanced.
How do I change a u-joint in a 97 toyota four runner?
is it differcult to change a u joint on a 97 toyota four runner?|||For me? No.
For you? Probably. No offense - but since you%26#039;re asking, it%26#039;s not something you%26#039;re going to be able to do easily. It%26#039;s best done in a u-joint press, although I%26#039;ve done them in an emergency with just a hammer and some appropriately-sized sockets to pound on.|||They usually aren%26#039;t that bad. Some are bolted in, some are held in by clips. You need to look at it to find out.
For you? Probably. No offense - but since you%26#039;re asking, it%26#039;s not something you%26#039;re going to be able to do easily. It%26#039;s best done in a u-joint press, although I%26#039;ve done them in an emergency with just a hammer and some appropriately-sized sockets to pound on.|||They usually aren%26#039;t that bad. Some are bolted in, some are held in by clips. You need to look at it to find out.
How Involved Is It To Change Front U-Joint On 96 Jeep Cherokee 4WD?
My Cherokee keeps making a popping sound when I turn. A friend told me it was the u-joint. Does the whole front axle have to come out to change it? Is the u-joint pressed into the axle?|||%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;Is the u-joint pressed into the axle?%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;
on the bottom/centre of the leaf spring is a little button that slides into the top of the axle. having this button on the bottom of both springs is what centres the front axle. the U-joint hold the axle and spring together
what you need to do for this job is secure the front wheels so they don%26#039;t roll back and forth when you release the front axle from the spring. then lift up the forward end of the frame till the spring holding the frame to the axle stops bending. set the truck down there on a jackstand so this way there%26#039;s not too much weight pressing down on your axle when you%26#039;re working on it but the tire and front axle are still resting on the ground, securely blocked from rolling around..
then you can cut the U-joints off with a grinding wheel. don%26#039;t even bother trying to undo those bolts. just make sure all the wheels are blocked and the thing is in park and you have good jackstands. when it%26#039;s secured, try rocking it so you know it%26#039;s not gonna tip off the jackstand or anything and find some level ground to work on. also disconnect the battery and bleed the fuel lines dry if you%26#039;re working near your fuel system. safety%26#039;s the most important thing. i did my whole springs this way and the U-joints too took me a day for each side.|||It%26#039;s not a U joint it%26#039;s a CV joint.... Buy a haynes manual for your vehicle and it will tell you all about it in the troubleshooting section...|||idk about the u joint but my jeep was making the same noise and it turned out to be the tierod... i hope this helps|||If you%26#039;re sure it%26#039;s the Ujoint in the axle it%26#039;s not too hard but it is a good deal of work. First remove the tire, brakes, then the hub, open the differential cover and remove the axle retaining clip and slide the axle out. Then you can press out the u-joint and press in the new one and reassemble. Pretty straight forward and if all goes well maybe 3-4 hours I%26#039;d guess. You can get hand operated u-joint press kits from harbor freight tools for about $20 and it%26#039;ll do the job. Or find someone with a shop press. Definitely get the Haynes manual it%26#039;ll have pictures. Double check the tire rods and make sure everything that has a grease fitting is greased and that may solve your problem.
Anyone who thinks a Cherokee has a CV joint in the axle doesn%26#039;t know the first thing about solid front axles.|||Before you go and start ripping things apart that may not be at fault, get it diagnosed by a professional.
It will probably cost you about $40 bucks to have it looked at.
Not only are you going to save a bunch of money replacing parts that weren%26#039;t bad to begin with, but time as well.
on the bottom/centre of the leaf spring is a little button that slides into the top of the axle. having this button on the bottom of both springs is what centres the front axle. the U-joint hold the axle and spring together
what you need to do for this job is secure the front wheels so they don%26#039;t roll back and forth when you release the front axle from the spring. then lift up the forward end of the frame till the spring holding the frame to the axle stops bending. set the truck down there on a jackstand so this way there%26#039;s not too much weight pressing down on your axle when you%26#039;re working on it but the tire and front axle are still resting on the ground, securely blocked from rolling around..
then you can cut the U-joints off with a grinding wheel. don%26#039;t even bother trying to undo those bolts. just make sure all the wheels are blocked and the thing is in park and you have good jackstands. when it%26#039;s secured, try rocking it so you know it%26#039;s not gonna tip off the jackstand or anything and find some level ground to work on. also disconnect the battery and bleed the fuel lines dry if you%26#039;re working near your fuel system. safety%26#039;s the most important thing. i did my whole springs this way and the U-joints too took me a day for each side.|||It%26#039;s not a U joint it%26#039;s a CV joint.... Buy a haynes manual for your vehicle and it will tell you all about it in the troubleshooting section...|||idk about the u joint but my jeep was making the same noise and it turned out to be the tierod... i hope this helps|||If you%26#039;re sure it%26#039;s the Ujoint in the axle it%26#039;s not too hard but it is a good deal of work. First remove the tire, brakes, then the hub, open the differential cover and remove the axle retaining clip and slide the axle out. Then you can press out the u-joint and press in the new one and reassemble. Pretty straight forward and if all goes well maybe 3-4 hours I%26#039;d guess. You can get hand operated u-joint press kits from harbor freight tools for about $20 and it%26#039;ll do the job. Or find someone with a shop press. Definitely get the Haynes manual it%26#039;ll have pictures. Double check the tire rods and make sure everything that has a grease fitting is greased and that may solve your problem.
Anyone who thinks a Cherokee has a CV joint in the axle doesn%26#039;t know the first thing about solid front axles.|||Before you go and start ripping things apart that may not be at fault, get it diagnosed by a professional.
It will probably cost you about $40 bucks to have it looked at.
Not only are you going to save a bunch of money replacing parts that weren%26#039;t bad to begin with, but time as well.
In desperate need of detailed instructions on changing u joint?
I have an 86 Chevy that has 8%26quot; of lift, and 40%26quot; super swampers. I saved this ol girl from a grove where she had been sitting for 4 years. Upon installing a new 350 and new rear end, I found that the 4x4 wouldnt engage. Installed new Warn lockers and that fixed the problem. Now I have a %26quot;thud, thud, thud%26quot; when the 4x4 is locked in that feels like it comes from the transfer case. A local mechanic said it was the constant velocity joint connecting to the transfer case. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I would love to do this myself. This whole truck has been a great experience and there seems to be a lack of instructions for the first timers. |||That GM front drive shaft CV joint assembly is a real piece of work. If it is a virgin the caps are held in place by injection molded plastic if it is the one i am thinking of you simply have to pound it hard enough to break the plastic - the replacement joint comes with snap rings ... the other two possibility%26#039;s are snap ring inside the flange and snap ring at the end of the cap - they used all 3 methods at different times! Pull the rings if they are present and apply a BFH to drive the cups out ( support the cross ) pound on the housing.
You must replace both cross assembly%26#039;s at the same time and I certainly would not do that without changing the pivot ball and seat at the same time no matter how good you might think it looks - but I bet it will be obviously trashed too. Make certain the spring is not broken or malformed - replace it if it is.
The real fun part is trying to line everything up when it is time to reassemble - absolutely requires an extra set of skilled hands to pull off because of the spring loaded pivot assembly.
Make sure to put all the zerks in, in the same general direction, so you do not have to turn the shaft every which way to lube it.
Good luck and keep your fingers clear!|||You need to get a maintenance manual like from the manufacter or from Chilton or Motors or Haynes. You can get one for like about 20 to 25 bucks. It will give detailed instructions on how to do this job and many others. I guarantee this won%26#039;t be the last time you will need it. If you are desperate for money you can go to a public library. Most of them will have manuals in the reference section. They will let you look at them but not check them out. After you do this a time or 2 you will pluck down the bucks for your very own manual. |||The CV joint that you are talking about is welded to the drive shaft. Sorry but you will need to take to a drive shaft shop or buy a new one. Sorry about the bad news.|||Are the u joints actually worn out? If you can feel and see the play coming from the u joints yeah, sure. But if the noise is coming from the t-case that might be your problem. I have an 93 k2500 diesel it had 240k on it when I bought it. When I engage the 4x4 there was a clunk, clunk from the transfer case turns out 8 months later it got stuck in neutral. I opened up and found that all the plastic linings on the shift forks had come apart and a chunk of it was in the t-case chain, that was the clunking sound I heard. Check your t-case oil level since is been sitting you might need new seals all around.
The time consuming part.
The u joints you remove the retainer clips on the end of each u joint,
you might need to soak it with WD-40. Get a socket that will fit into the hole of the joke where the u joint cap is. Secure the axle, you must hit the caps firmly and with enough strength with a 5-10 lb hammer. Make sure to support the joke where your are hitting and to leave room for the cap on bottom to come out. If you put the axle on a flat surface the cap on the bottom will not come out. You might need a second socket that is big enough to catch the joke only. The caps have to slide inside the joke, by punching one side in will push the opposite side out until the caps come completely off.
Replacing, clean the joke where the caps go, sanded if necessary.
You have to remove the caps on the new one, be care full not to drop them you have needle bearings inside. Place the join body in place, it does not go in any specific way. Place the cap on one of the jokes end and tap it in until it passes the snap ring groove. Same on the opposite side replace the snap rings. Your done!!
Hope it help
You must replace both cross assembly%26#039;s at the same time and I certainly would not do that without changing the pivot ball and seat at the same time no matter how good you might think it looks - but I bet it will be obviously trashed too. Make certain the spring is not broken or malformed - replace it if it is.
The real fun part is trying to line everything up when it is time to reassemble - absolutely requires an extra set of skilled hands to pull off because of the spring loaded pivot assembly.
Make sure to put all the zerks in, in the same general direction, so you do not have to turn the shaft every which way to lube it.
Good luck and keep your fingers clear!|||You need to get a maintenance manual like from the manufacter or from Chilton or Motors or Haynes. You can get one for like about 20 to 25 bucks. It will give detailed instructions on how to do this job and many others. I guarantee this won%26#039;t be the last time you will need it. If you are desperate for money you can go to a public library. Most of them will have manuals in the reference section. They will let you look at them but not check them out. After you do this a time or 2 you will pluck down the bucks for your very own manual. |||The CV joint that you are talking about is welded to the drive shaft. Sorry but you will need to take to a drive shaft shop or buy a new one. Sorry about the bad news.|||Are the u joints actually worn out? If you can feel and see the play coming from the u joints yeah, sure. But if the noise is coming from the t-case that might be your problem. I have an 93 k2500 diesel it had 240k on it when I bought it. When I engage the 4x4 there was a clunk, clunk from the transfer case turns out 8 months later it got stuck in neutral. I opened up and found that all the plastic linings on the shift forks had come apart and a chunk of it was in the t-case chain, that was the clunking sound I heard. Check your t-case oil level since is been sitting you might need new seals all around.
The time consuming part.
The u joints you remove the retainer clips on the end of each u joint,
you might need to soak it with WD-40. Get a socket that will fit into the hole of the joke where the u joint cap is. Secure the axle, you must hit the caps firmly and with enough strength with a 5-10 lb hammer. Make sure to support the joke where your are hitting and to leave room for the cap on bottom to come out. If you put the axle on a flat surface the cap on the bottom will not come out. You might need a second socket that is big enough to catch the joke only. The caps have to slide inside the joke, by punching one side in will push the opposite side out until the caps come completely off.
Replacing, clean the joke where the caps go, sanded if necessary.
You have to remove the caps on the new one, be care full not to drop them you have needle bearings inside. Place the join body in place, it does not go in any specific way. Place the cap on one of the jokes end and tap it in until it passes the snap ring groove. Same on the opposite side replace the snap rings. Your done!!
Hope it help
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